We got off to a rocky start when my opening night order vanished into the void, but to their credit The Alex held their hands up and invited me back. I’m glad they did. From huge candied jalapeño chicken tenders to a £20 steak frites that’s hard to beat in the city, the food more than made up for that first hiccup.

Stepping into Porters felt like being welcomed into a warm, friendly home. Right from the start, the atmosphere was inviting, and the...